A Royal Rosé for Spring and Summer

2009 Copain Rose, $17.99

We tasted a nice and varied group of rosés followed by several red wines at a NY Vintners Thursday blind tasting session. All wines are tasted blind to reduce “name-bias” in judging the wines. Rosés are typically used for casual warm weather drinking. The captivating color, pleasant fruitiness and gentle pricing are all part of the appeal of well made rosé wines. But every once and a while a rosé comes along which offers more to the consumer than uncomplicated ease of the average rosé. And we found one during the tasting. It is a rosé made from Pinot Noir grapes grown in the cool Anderson valley in Northern California, bottled under the name Copain. Copain means companion, trusted, sympathetic friend in French. It was the name selected by wine maker Wells Guthrie for the winery he started in 2000.  Guthrie is a quiet, reserved fellow with intense eyes who prefers to let his wines rather than his mouth do the speaking. After running the tasting panel for the Wine Spectator in San Francisco, Guthrie moved to the Rhone Valley where he worked with two of France’s greatest vignerons: Michel Chapoutier and Jean-Louis Chave. That’s sort of like working in the kitchens of The French Laundry and Alinea. Why no go to the best? It was clear from his first wines that Guthrie knew what he wanted and knew how to do it—to make elegant, precise, complex yet gentle wine from outstanding cool climate sites in California. He has focused on Syrah and Pinot Noir. All his Pinots come from vineyards in the under-the-radar Anderson Valley which is 100 miles north of Sonoma. His Syrahs are sourced from vineyard sites in various regions of California—from  Santa Barbara in the south, Mendocino county in the North and even to Walla Walla in central Washington State.  The criterion Gutherie employs is to find sites which allow for full expression of the soil structure and climatic conditions under which the grapes are grown. His wines have received and deserve glowing reviews from the wines press, independent tasters and restaurateurs. His sensibility is the future of California wines. You can be sure that you will be hearing more about his wines from us.

The 2009 Copain Rosé offers a gleaming bright hue of strawberry and pink salmon. The bouquet is a wonderful synthesis of raspberry, vanilla and white flowers. You can smell the Pinot in its incipient stages. On the palate the wine is vibrant, fresh, juicy yet dry with the persistence of a wine selling for much more. The wine quality surpasses that of most rosés by far. Quite attractive on its own, the Copain Rosé can successfully accompany a wide range of grilled, sautéed and steamed foods. You are not likely to taste a better rosé this year. By the way, the Copain labels are lovely.

Bob Millman, New York Vintners

2009 Copain Rosé “Tous Ensemble” $17.99

California  •  Anderson Valley  •  Pinot Noir

Rosés

Even though I am too young (fortunate really) to remember the white Zinfandels and infamous Mateus from Portugal that were produced in large quantities in the latter part of the 20th century, the overall quality of rosé wines have improved leaps and bounds in recent years. Not only have innovations taken place in the vineyards and cellars, but consumers have become more educated as their discerning palates are beginning to desire more. This demand has led towards a drier, more complex style, one that speaks to the true character of the varietal and the area from which they’re grown.

The majority of rosé wines today are made in a light, crisp style with perhaps the most traditional, and premier, examples coming out of Provence, Roussillon, and the Rhone valley in southern France. Primarily based on either the Grenache or Syrah grape, these expressions move from a light pale pink to what some would consider almost red in hue. With these changes in colors come an amazing array of flavors and textures. They range from what would be almost reminiscent of white wines on the lighter end all the way to nearly full of reds with touches of tannin and greater fruit notes that accompany wines of that color.

One of rosé’s most endearing qualities is its flexibility with food. The wines work tremendously with produce from the spring and summer seasons, especially with dishes that pair terribly with red wines–those where vinegar plays a major role. I personally enjoy rosé with everything from oysters on the half-shell, to fresh salads, and even BBQ. As the weather warms, throw a bottle of rosé in an ice bucket, relax and enjoy the sun and outdoors with some good food and good friends.

Here are some great examples of southern French rosé and my choice bottles from other parts of Europe.

Coeur Esterelle 2008 Rosé, $11.99

Puig Parahy 2008 Rosé, $13.99

Bastianich 2007 Rosato, $16.99

Gurrutxaga 2008 Txacolina Rosado, $21.99